The relationship between natural and synthetic perfumery remains a discursive issue throughout the subsequent chapters. They are static they do not mix with the wearer's body chemistry, nor do they evolve on the skin. Most contemporary perfumes are 'linear' fragrances designed to produce a strong and instantaneous effect, striking the senses all at once and quickly dissipating. It's a critical discourse, in which the author expresses her clear, unabashed views on modern perfumery: It kicks off with a chapter on the legacy of 17th century alchemy, in which the basic premises of natural perfumery are described at length. We take a closer look at her book Essence and Alchemy, which played a major role in the recent popularization of natural perfumery.Įssence and Alchemy is a practical guide to natural perfumery, which makes it slightly different from the books we've discussed so far. Her current business, Aftelier, is a flourishing operation based in Berkeley, California. It was the start of a lifelong passion for natural essences: she put her literary ambitions on hold, and eventually established her very own perfume studio. Little over a decade ago, while doing research for a novel, she found herself immersed in a collection of ancient perfume books. To say that Mandy Aftel took the world of natural perfumery by storm is hardly an overstatement.
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